Tie fabric and lining, assembling and sewing



Dec. 28, 1943. M. M. NEWMAN TIE FABRIC AND LINING,

ASSEMBLING AND SEWING Filed April 5, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 M w WM m FIG! FIG.4

FIG.3

.INVENTOR MAX M. NEWMAN H TTORNEY Dec. 28, 1943. NEWMAN 2,337,919

TIE FABRIC AND LINING, ASSEMBLING AND SEWING Filed April 5, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR MAX M. NEWMA BY va s," f: 7

ATTORNEY Patented Dec. 28, 1943 TIE FABRIC AND LINING, assnrmnmc m sawnscr Max M. Newman, New York, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & Foundry poration of New Jersey Application April 5, 1941, Serial No. 388,977

Company, a cor- -7 Claims. (01. 112-2) This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to necktie sewing machines.

The main object of the invention is to provide a novel guide arranged to enga e the fold line of the folded necktie fabric, which is'doubled upon itself and positioned with its lapped edges along the desired'stitch line along which it is stitched to the lining, together with automatic mechanism for moving the guide transversely of the lining while the superposed fabric and lining are fed to the stitch forming mechanism. Heretofore in necktie sewing machines there has been no provision for guiding the fabric along its fold line and the lapped edges of the fabric were positioned against a stationary guide which was relied upon to maintain the fabric margins in the desired relation to the stitch line. However when the fabric was inaccurately cut, that is, of greater or lesser width than the desired size of tie, the distance from the edges of the necktie fabric positioned against the stationary guide to the fold line would be greater or lesser than desired. Accordingly the distance from the stitched linin to the fold line would be difierent than in the case of a tie cut to the proper size, and when the improperly cut fabric was turned inside out after the operation, the size of the completed tie would be greater or smaller than desired. But with my novel guide operating on the fold line of the fabric the proper distance from the fold line to the stitch line will be maintained during the stitching operation, and thus a tie of the correct size will be formed.

In this connection, it is a further object of the invention to associate with the novel fabric guiding means, spaced members which are arguiding mechanism in engagement with the interior of the fold line of the fabric and the lining guides engaging the margins of th lining; and

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan view ofthe folded necktie fabric with its edges overlapped and positioned upon the lining in predetermined relation to the stitch line along which the fabric is stitched to the lining.

Referring to Fig. 1, wherein the invention is shown in conjunction with a suitable necktie sewing machine of the type shown in the patent to M. M. Newman, et al., No. 2,098,009, a work support plate 80 is provided with an angular slot 82 through the inner end J4 of which the linin L is inserted from below the plat and fed to the sewing mechanism with the folded necktie fabric positioned thereon with its edges overlapped and positioned along the longitudinal medial stitch line B of the lining, as indicated in Fig. 4. As shown in said Patent 2,098,009, the stitch-formin or sewing mechanism comprises endless flexible metal bands It and I8 having transverse bars or teeth 20 fastened thereto, the teeth 20 on one band being arranged to interengage or mesh with the teeth on the other band along the edges or opposed runs of the bands as shown in Fig. 2. The upper band i8 is shown in section Fig. 1 is a fragmentary plan view of a necktie sewing machine equipped 'with' the improved necktie fabric guiding mechanism an suitable lining u de means;

Fig. 2 is a partial side elevation of the same viewed from line 2'2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view on line 3-3 of Fig. 1, showing the uide blade of the fabric in Fig. l. to expose the pulley 22 over which it runs and the lower band it runs over a pulley 24. The upper pulley 22 is mounted on a stud 26 fastened to the upright side frame 28 of the machine by a nut 30. Pulley 24 is mounted on a shaft 82 journaled in the side frame 28, and suitably driven as shown in Patent No. 2,098,009, and carries a pinion at which drives a gear 36 on the shaft 38 of the machine. Thus when the shaft 32 revolves it drives the lower band l6 and the teeth thereon drive the teeth on the upper band and cause the latter to advance with the lower band. A needle 40, Fig. 1, is mounted as shown in said Patent 2,098,009 and located within notches 42 in the underface of the crimper teeth 20 of the upper band and corresponding notches in the crimper teeth of the lower band, and normally protrudes from between the crimper teeth meshing at the inner sides of the pulleys 22 and 24 sufflciently to permit the leading end of the necktie fabric and the lining to be impaled thereon. As the crimper teeth move into meshing engagement around the pulleys 22 and 2| they coact to form pleats in the superposed fabric and lining and advance the pleat upon the projecting needle point and then along the shank of the needle, thus moving the latter back forming mechanism is fully described in the patent mentioned above, reference may be had to the same for a complete description of theoperation thereof.

The work-supporting table lll'is fastened to the side frame 28 as shown in Fig. 2 and to the bottom thereof are fastened members 44 provided with slots in their upper faces (not shown) wherein are slidably mounted rods 46 and 48. The rod 48 has a hooked portion on it outer end engaging one edg'eof the lining as shown in Fig. l and the corresponding end of the rod 46 is square and arranged to engage theother edge of the lining. On the rod 48 is mounted a cam roller 52 which is yieldlngly held against one edge or cam face 54 of a pattern band 56, by a tension spring 58. A cam roller 58 on the rod 46 is held against a cam face 62 of the pattern band by a tension spring 6|. mounted on the wheel 66 carried by the shaft 38. It is evident that the shaft 82 must be turned more frequently than the shaft 88 on which the pattern band is supported and for each cycle or revolution of the pattern band the sewin mechanism forms the appropriate number of stitches for a complete tie.

The fabric guiding means may include a blade 68 arranged as shown in Figs. 1 and 3 to engage the interior of the line of fold of the necktie fabric whose lapped edges are positioned upon the desired stitch line of the lining. Since the necktie fabric is tapered from its ends to its middle portion, the blade 68 should be moved transversely of the fabric toward and away from the desired stitch line to maintain the blade in engagement with the fold line and to maintain a predetermined distance from the fold line to the stitch line which corresponds to the desired size or width of the various portions of the completed tie. For this purpose the blade is adjustably fastened to the rod 18 which is guided in slots of the bars 12 fastened to the plate I and provided with a hook-shaped cam follower 14 which is held by a tension spring 15 against the cam 'face or edge 18 of a pattern band I8 fastened to a wheel 80. The pattern band has a shape conforming to the taper of the folded necktie fabric and makes a complete revolution when the appropriate number of stitches have been formed to make a complete tie; It will be evident that the blade 88 will be guided to maintain it in engagement with the interior of the fold line and will be displaced transversely of the fabric toward and away from the desired stitch line to keep the fold line at the desired predetermined distance from the stitch line while the lining and fabric are guided into the stitch forming mechanism.

In Fig. 3, there are shown in detail the blade 68 and the folded necktie fabric T and the ends of the guides 48 and 48 arranged in engagement with the lining underlying the fabric. It will be noted that the margins of the folded fabric will be maintained in parallelism to the desired stitch line S as shown in Fig. 4 and that the stitch line will be at a predetermined distance from the fold line of the fabric in conformity with the desired width of the tie at the various portions along its length in accordance with the desired taper. The guide blade 68, it should also be noted, is adjustable on the rod 10 to operate properly on tie fabrics of various widths; and is also detachable therefrom.

The lining guides 46 and I8 and the mechanism for actuating the same are substantially The pattern band 56 is v similar in construction to the lining guiding mechanism shown in my co-pending application,

Serial Number 343,515, filed July 2, 1940, to which stitch line from a wide portion adjacent one end to a narrowportion, the combination with mechanism for simultaneously feeding the fabric and lining lengthwise in a longitudinal direction, a deviceyhavlng a fixed stitching position for stitching the coinciding edges of said fabric to the lining along said stitch line as they are fed by said mechanism, of guide members engaging both edges of the lining and movable toward and away from each other, mechanism for automatically displacing said members toward each other to maintain them in engagement with the lining edges along the tapered portion of the lining and thereby guide the lining as it is advanced longitudinally to said stitching position, a guide for said folded necktie fabric, and means for automatically-moving said guide in timed relation to said mechanism toward and away from the stitch line as the fabric is fed lengthwise to said stitching po.nt in order to guide the fabric with its marginal portions in predetermined relation 85 with the stitch line of said lining.

2. In a machine for assembling and sewing together necktie parts consisting of an elongated outer fabric piece varying in width along its length and folded lengthwise with its longitudinal edges substantially coinciding to form a double edge, and an elongated lining piece tapered along its length at either side of a predetermined stitch line from a wide portion adjacent one end to a narrow portion, the combination with mechanism for simultaneously feeding the fabric and lining in a longitudinal direction to a fixed stitching position for stitching the coinciding margins of the fabric to the lining along said stitch line as they are fed by said mechanism, guide members engaging the edges of the lining and movable toward and away from each other, mechanism for displacing said members toward and away from the stitch line to maintain said members in engagement with the lining edges along the tapered portion of the lining and thereby guide the lining as it is advanced longitudinally to said stitching position, a guide for said folded necktie abric' arranged to engage said fold line, and means for automatically moving said guide in timed relation to said mechanism toward and away from the stitch line as the fabric is fed to said stitching point in order to maintain the guide in engagement with the fold line and thereby guide the fabric with its marginal portions in predetermined relation with the stitch line of said lining and with a predetermined distance maintained between said stitch line and said fold line at all times.

3. In a machine for stitching together a preformed necktie lining having edges tapering toward and away from each other along a medial stitch line, and a folded necktie fabric varying in width along its length and having its margins overlapped upon each other and positioned along said stitch line; the combination with guide means for guiding the lining to pass the medial stitch line thereof to a stitching point, said guide means including spaced members engaging the edges of said lining, and a rotary cam for simultaneously displacing said members transversely of the stitch line to maintain the members in engagement with the edges of the lining as the latter is advanced lengthwise to the stitching point, a guide arranged to engage the interior of the line of fold of said necktie fabric, and mechanism for automatically moving said guide toward and away from the stitch line in timed relationship to the rotation of said cam to maintain it in engagement with the line of fold as the fabric is fed lengthwise to the stitching point.

4. In a sewing machine, for stitching a necktie fabric of varying width to a lining and having a work-supporting plate and a stitch-forming mechanism above said plate, said plate having a slot through which a necktie lining can be fed longitudinally from below the plate to the stitchforming mechanism, guide means adjacent said slot and engaging the margins of the lining passing through said slot and guiding the same to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guide means including spaced members engaging the edges of said lining, and a rotary cam for simultaneously displacing said members transversely of the stitch line to maintain the members in engagement with the edges of the lining as the latter is advanced through said slot to said stitch-forming mecha nism, the combination with a guide having a blade arranged to engage the interior of the fold line of a folded necktie fabric positioned upon said plate with its edges disposed in predetermined relationship to the lining passing through the slot for movement with the lining to the stitch-forming mechanism for. stitching of the overlapped edges of the fabric to the lining along a predetermined stitch line, and mechanism for moving said guide toward and away from said stitch line in timed relationship to the rotation of said cam as the fabric is fed lengthwise to the stitch-forming mechanism to maintain said blade in engagement with the interior of said fold line and thereby guide the folded margins of the fabric in predetermined relation :with said stitch line and maintain a predetermined distance between said stitch line and said fold line along the length of the fabric.

5. In a machine for assembling and sewing together necktie parts consisting of an elongated fabric piece varying in width along its length from relatively wide portions at the ends thereof to a relatively narrow portion at the central section thereof and folded lengthwise with its longitudinal edges substantially adjacent to form a double edge, and an elongated lining piece tapered along its length at either side of a predetermined stitch line from ,a wide portion adjacent one end to a narrow portion, the combination with a device having a fixed stitching position for stitching the longitudinal edges of said fabric to the lining along its stitch line as the fabric is fed longitudinally, of guide members engaging both edges of the lining and movable toward and away from each other, mechanism for automatically displacing said members toward each other to maintain them in engagement with the lining edges along the tapered portion of the lining and thereby guide the lining as it is advanced longitudinally to said stitching position, a guide for said folded necktie fabric including a blade extending transversely of the stitch line arranged to enter between the folds-of said fabric and into engagement with the interior of the fold line, and means for automatically moving said blade in timed relationto said mechanism fold line along the leading end of the fabric, and

subsequently moving said blade in the opposite direction as the trailing end of the fabric is fed to the stitching device, in order to maintain said blade in engagement with theinterior of the fold line along said trailing end, and thereby maintain the overlapped longitudinal edges of the fabric in predetermined parallel relation with the stitch line.

6. In a machine for sewing together the mar-, gins of a necktie comprising an elongated necktie fabric varying in width along its length from relatively wide portions at the ends thereof to a. relatively narrow portion at the central section thereof and folded lengthwise with its longitudinal edges overlapped upon each other, the combination with mechanism for pleating and feeding the fabric lengthwise, of a stationary elongated needle arranged to impale and stitch-together the overlapped edges of the pleated fabric along a predetermined stitch line while the fabric is fed lengthwise by said mechanism, a guide for the necktie fabric including a blade arranged to enter between the folds of the fabric and extending transversely of the stitch line to engage the interior of the fabric fold line, and means for automatically moving said blade in timed relaq tionship to the operation of said mechanism toward and away from said stitch line to maintain the blade in engagement with said fold line and. thereby guide the fabric, while it is being fed by said mechanism, with its overlapped edges in a predetermined relation to the stitch line, said means including a rotary cylindrical pattern member having a horizontal axis extending transversely of said needle and having a cam surface formed on one edge thereof, a cam follower engaging said cam surface and connected to said blade, a spring urging said cam follower, against said surface, the circumferential length of said cam surface being of a length not less than the desired length of the stitch line, said cam surface having a configuration which will displace said blade toward the stitch line to maintain said blade in engagement with the fold line along the leading end of the fabric, while the fabric is being fed by said mechanism on to said needle, and subsequently displace said blade in the opposite direction to maintain the blade in engagement with the fold line along the trailing end of said fabric.

7. In a machine for assembling and sewing together necktie parts consisting of an elongated outer fabric piece varying in width along its length from relatively wide portions at the ends thereof to a relatively narrow portion at the central section thereof and folded lengthwise with its longitudinal edges substantially coinciding to form a double edge, and an elongated lining piece extending along the length of said folded fabric and tapered along its length at either side of a predetermined stitch line from a wide portion adjacent one end to a narrow portion, the combination with mechanism for simultaneously feeding the fabric and lining. lengthwise to a predetermined stitching position, of a device for stitching the coinciding edges of said fabric to means. for guiding the lining to said stitching position with thelongitudinal center line oi the lining passing through said stitch line, a guide for: said folded necktie fabric arranged to engage'the fold line of said fabric; and means for automatically moving said guide in timed relation to said mechanism toward and away from the stitch line as the fabric is fed lengthwise to said stitching point to maintain the guide in engagement with the fold line and thereby guide the fabric, while it is fed by said mechanism wth its overlapped edges in parallel relation to said I .01 iabric.

stimhli ne, said means including a movable pattern member provided with a guiding surface,

a cam follower engaging said surface and connected to said guide. said suriace having a con. .flzuration which will displace said guide toward thestitch line to maintain said guide in engagementwth the fold line along the leading end of said fabric, while it is fed by said mechanism, and subsequently displace said guide in the op- 10 posite direction to maintain the guide in engagement with the fold line along the trailing end 

